THE SMART TRICK OF RESTAURANT AWARDS THAT NOBODY IS DISCUSSING

Among the their classics aged and new: fat chow funn, noodles as chewy as mochi, with a veneer of crisp; honey walnut shrimp in fluffy, shattery clouds of batter, slaked with candy mayo; crackly edged “Spam” made from Duroc pork; and, for dessert, pale blushing lychee granita, which has a cache of incredibly hot pink dragon fruit waiting around